Previous Chapter | Table of Contents | Next Chapter |
Natural Borders Homepage |
Chapter
Ten
The
Monmouth/Independence
Community
Resource Unit
The
Monmouth/Independence Community Resource Unit extends on the north from just
south of the town of Rickreall and the Southern Pacific Railroad, on the west
between Monmouth and Dallas, taking in Lewisville, on the south to incorporate
the settlements of Mitchell, Parker, and Buena Vista, and on the east, the
Willamette River. Very near the Polk County line the topography and settlement
patterns change, with fewer homes and farms, and a change in vegetation north
of the line. Despite modern infrastructure, the river is still a dividing line
on the east from a social and cultural perspective. Figure 28 shows a map of
this area.
"Monmouth
and Independence are joined at the hip."
"Independence
and Monmouth are like two brothers that love each other but who fight every now
and then."
Many social
services and associations, as well as the Chamber of Commerce, refer to
Monmouth and Independence as a single unit.
Monmouth
was incorporated in 1880. In 1990 its population was 6310 and in 2000 it was
7741, an increase of 19%. Independence, incorporated in 1874, had a population
of 4482 in 1990 and 6035 in 2000, an increase of 26% (Census Data,
Table Two). Monmouth had 2272
housing units in 1990 while Independence had 1539. The median value of Monmouth
housing in 1990 was
Figure 28
Map of the Monmouth/Independence Community
Resource Unit
$57,100,
while for Independence, it was $44,800 (Portland State University, Center for
Population Research and Census).
Southeast
Monmouth has a few new townhouse developments that do not fit the kind of
housing that preceded it. Also, the streets in this area are laid out in grid
form, while the older areas of town are more random or curve around
obstructions. Throughout most of Monmouth, styles and ages of homes are
generally intermixed. A few blocks surrounding Main Street are considered the historic
area and downtown. Many of the homes here are multi-story, with large old trees
in front. Western Oregon University is in the northwest section of town and is
fairly disconnected from downtown. Apartment complexes can be seen in areas around the campus and in the
historic areas. Appearances would suggest that Monmouth has never had a "boom"
and has always grown at quite modest rates.
"To buy a house in the country, you must also purchase at least 80 acres of land. Many farmers around here then lease those lands."
Numerous
local people mentioned the old town of Valsetz. It was created solely for the
timber industry. Although it is now non existent, for many residents it is a
symbol of their past. People measure how local others are by whether or not
they know the story of this town. Boise Cascade drained the Valsetz Lake in the
mid-1980s, pushed buildings into the hole and burned it. Logging equipment and
structures were still in use until rampant vandalism and violence forced them
to permanently close gates. Every year, old Valsetz residents continue to meet
once a year in Falls City. Interestingly, most Valsetz residents did not
relocate in Falls City. Instead, most people ended up in Dallas and north of
Dallas.
Many
people believe that Monmouth is dying. This sentiment is partly due to its
"dry status", which makes it illegal to sell alcohol within the city
boundaries. We heard from a prominent business owner that the business
community is trying very hard to overturn that status in the upcoming election.
The fifth, and most recent time, people voted on this measure was in 1975. It
did not pass because the majority were very involved in churches who until
recently controlled local government. A committee of citizens has organized to
repeal the town's prohibition status. Those involved are hoping it passes this
time around. Thus, Monmouth is unable to attract business. Catering to
university students that stay fairly disconnected from local events, it seems
unable to gain traction for itself. The old grocery store in Monmouth was
located on the opposite end of town from WOU, which created regular foot
traffic through town. Now that influence is lost. The lack of business vitality has affected the real estate
business, slowing the sales of homes and bringing down prices.
Monmouth
is an encapsulated town, beginning and ending abruptly. People value that it
has not sprawled like other communities. One area, called "Gentle Woods," is
the more upscale area, located up on the hill by the water tower. The rest is
"old town" and not distinguished into smaller areas.
Figure 29
Downtown Independence
Figure
29 is a photo showing downtown Independence. Independence dates from 1874 and
currently has 6035 people. In contrast to Monmouth, people felt that Independence
was more active, more diverse, more tolerant, and more mixed in terms of
socioeconomic status.
"When the mall was built a few years ago [in Independence], people went through a sort of depression. They felt the downtown was lost. In the last several years, residents rediscovered it and put lots of money into revitalizing it. Independence has a great deal of pride for its historical/downtown district."
An area just outside the Independence airport is called "the
flats" where many new houses and a new school have been built. This area is
prone to flooding and local people expect flooding to occur within a few years.
New developments are also found behind Mendi's Pizza in Independence.
Monmouth
and Independence attempted to become one city at some point but the effort
foundered because no name worked to rally the support. Although they are very
different, there is active and practical cooperation across their borders.
Working people,
primarily associated with the timber products industry, commuters, and
education interests make up the major economic publics. Urban people are moving
into the communities.
"City
people impose their city mentality in the country."
"People
from the city move to the country to enjoy the wildlife, but they bring their
dogs and then wonder why there's no wildlife."
The elderly and
retirement community is not pronounced in Monmouth and Independence. There is
an assisted living facility whose residents patronize local businesses.
The area supports
an active artist community.
Hispanics are not
highly visible but are an accepted presence in the community. Some stores
retain bilingual workers for dealing with Spanish speakers.
See Section Two.
People in this
area make a living in education, agriculture, the timber mill in Independence
(recently purchased by Weyerhaeuser), Boise-Cascade, and a new cabinet factory
in Independence. A great many residents commute to work elsewhere in the
region. Western Oregon University is by far the largest employer in Monmouth
with 656 workers, Boise employs 52 and Marr Brothers Barkdust employs 8. By
contrast, Central School District employs 310 in Independence, while Marquis
Spa manufacturer employs 290, Robert Lloyd Sheet Metal, 100, Boise Cascade, 70 and
Franklin Equipment, 35 (Community Profile, Oregon Economic and Community
Development Department, 2002). Partnership
Living Community, a facility for mentally disabled adults, is also a major
employer.
Agriculture
outputs in this area consist of grass seeds, Christmas trees, and cattle. Polk
County has an extremely high concentration of dairies and they apparently
require large amounts of water. Christmas trees are labor and capital intensive
and often take 7 years to produce a return. While sheep used to be part of
local agriculture, farmers stated that higher numbers of coyotes have
encouraged other agricultural choices. Grass seed farmers are struggling at the
moment. A few years ago, they experienced a number of years of excellent
profits but now the market is not doing as well. The seeds are patented and
have to be sold through brokers of that particular brand. Recently, a major
seed company went bankrupt and many farmers in the valley had nowhere to sell
their seeds. Because seeds are not a food crop, the government rarely supports
seed farmers with subsidies.
Independent farms
are becoming rare, according to local stories. Strict zoning regulations
prohibit alternative uses of the land, favoring the sale of small operations to
larger (typically, corporate) operations.
People in Monmouth
and Independence do not like going to Salem or Lancaster. Some reported even
bypassing Salem to work and shop in Portland.
The business
association associated with the Chamber of Commerce is said to be as active as
it's ever been with people working together on common objectives. This
association is putting together a market analysis of unmet business needs in
the community.
A citizen task
force is spearheading a Monmouth beautification project for downtown through
ornamental light posts, painted murals, flower baskets, park benches and
trashcans.
It is not legal to
buy alcohol in Monmouth. The family, who owned the land some 100 years ago,
insisted that the town be kept dry when they gave over the land. When the
University was established, the same family would only sell the land if the
school agreed to stay dry. Current efforts to have these restrictions lifted
have resulted in a ballot initiative in 2002.
Today there isn't
a grocery store or restaurant in Monmouth. Dollars that would go to these kinds
of establishments instead are going to Independence, Albany, Corvallis and
Salem. Waremart Grocery in Independence was able to out-compete the Monmouth
grocery because it sells beer and wine, according to residents. Residents noted
that the major employers of the area, Western Oregon University, the police
academy, and the churches are all tax exempt.
"Monmouth is desperate for tax revenue."
"The ability to serve and sell alcohol would help businesses be more competitive."
Partnership Living
Community is a center for mentally handicapped adults. It is a major employer
in Monmouth and locals make a point of keeping an eye on its clients when they
walk around town. Neighbors Helping Neighbors is a non-profit group dedicated
to providing low-income and affordable housing.
Western Oregon University specializes in business, computer science, social sciences, teacher and special education, and creative arts.
The Department of Public Safety, Standards and Training is the state police academy located in the community. True to residents' perceptions, the facility is scheduled to move to Salem in the next few years.
Gentle House, a local historical house, was built around 1880 for the Butler children as part of an original land grant. After being cared for by the Gentle family from 1914 to 1981, it was donated to Western Oregon University Foundation.
See Section Three.
Themes
"It takes 20
miles." This theme relates to the common perception that one must go out for
needed goods and services but never more than 20 miles.
The bridge over
Ash Creek, connecting Monmouth and Independence is seen as a positive symbol
for the relationship between the two towns.
This is a
face-to-face culture that residents highly value.
Water availability
is an issue that affects Monmouth/Independence, as well as other communities in
this area. They are looking to acquire water from Adair Village, which, as an
old military base, has huge water rights.
Monmouth struggles
to achieve a viable tax base. The tax-exempt status of the Western Oregon
University precludes them from tax support.
"There's no connection between Monmouth and WOU. People don't communicate and there seems to be no shared interests."
Community Services
and Tax Base
"Is this town (Monmouth) dying? Our only grocery store closed a year ago, the police academy is going to be pulled out soon. WOU is the only thing in town. Oh, I guess Boise Cascade rebuilt their office so that looks good."
"The
lack of a grocery store, pharmacy and neighborhood shopping centers makes it
hard to attract newcomers."
The general
gathering places and sources of information in the community are the following:
Burgerville
in Monmouth, old timers meet in the morning from 8 to 10 a.m.
J's
Restaurant
Amador's
Alley and Andy's Café, both in Independence, host many meetings of local
community clubs.
Lenora's
Ghost is a bar/restaurant in Independence that serves as a gathering place.
The library
has several bulletin boards that are kept up-to-date, some with Spanish
language flyers, which are used by community groups about local events.
The following
gathering places and communication sources are oriented to public land users
and outdoors people:
Rick's Café is a
key gathering place in the community, frequented by older local residents,
users of the forest, and community members in general. It contains a large
bulletin board packed with local information. A chalkboard nearby announces
local sentiments ("Friends don't let friends drink Starbucks."). The place has
a comfortable ambience with large windows, a couch, sitting area, and areas
filled with newspapers and magazines. A long time resident, Richard Bunsi,
drops into Rick's Place virtually every morning at 10 a.m. He was a bartender
in Falls City and currently lives in Monmouth. He is a colorful figure involved
in wide range of local activities. He is a part owner of the River Gallery in
Independence, and a fly tyer in his free time. Richard is well known as a
fly-fishing expert and local artisan. He is very well connected to Independence
and Falls City.
Ray's barbershop
is a key communication spot in the community. Ray knows virtually everyone that
comes to his shop and has access to all spectrums of the community from college
students to old timers. He is known for his expertise in hunting and fishing.
Ray picks up a wide variety of BLM and ODF maps in Salem on a regular basis and
has them in his shop.
Jon's Bike Shop in
Monmouth is a key communication node for mountain biking enthusiasts.
The Bi-Mart on
Highway 99 serves a very large customer base with a diverse product selection.
It is one of two outlets for hunting and fishing licenses. The sporting goods
manager there is very connected with the recreationists of the community and
can identify favorite spots, key individuals, and so on. He moves information in the community around
sportsmen and recreation issues. He goes to the Salem BLM office and Oregon
Department of Forestry to update information for his clients.
Employees of the
Windermere Real Estate office take an annual fishing trip.
Certain extended
families get together a few times a year to hunt.
Locals use the
outdoors section of the Salem Statesman Journal for information about
recreation. Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife use a computer system to
update the public on changes to hunting and fishing regulations. This is an
effective way to communicate to recreational publics, and both Bi-Mart and the
farming cooperative store in Rickreall use the system. Information on gate
closures is handled word-of-mouth.
Figure 30
Organization |
Contact Information |
Mission |
Luckiamute Domestic
Water Cooperative Board |
Howard Pope [285] 8585 Suver Road Monmouth, OR 97362 (503) 838-2075 |
|
Archery Club |
|
|
Legacy Forest Project |
Renna Hoover Western Oregon
University 345 N. Monmouth Monmouth, OR 97362 (503) 838-8000 |
Protects historical
trees in town; plants new ones |
Santiam Flycasters |
Located in Salem |
Sportsfishing |
Dallas Itemizer-Observer web site |
http://www.itemizerobserver.com/ |
Links to all the towns,
organizations; good information. |
Luckiamute Watershed
Council |
Sean Burgett 810 Parry Road Falls City, OR 97361 (503) 787-5016 2nd Thursday,
6 p.m., Monmouth Volunteer Hall |
Watershed restoration |
Pedee/Ritner Creek
Watershed Council |
Chris Vandenberg 12503 Pedee Creek Road Monmouth, OR 97361 (503) 838-5126 |
Watershed restoration |
The most popular
recreational activities are fly-fishing, hunting, boating and cross-country
biking. A lot of local people like to fish off the "East Slope" of the Coastal
Range, like the Luckiamute River and the Siletz River. Hunting is more oriented to ducks and geese
than elk and deer. Bow hunting and archery target shooting are also popular. An
archery club and tie-flying businesses support these interests.
The residential
areas of the communities sported large numbers of boats and RVs. While a few
were very nice, most were modest in size and cost, small fishing boats and the
like.
A key aspect of
local recreational activity is the large amount of private industrial
forestland. Beyond Weyerhaeuser and Boise-Cascade lands are BLM lands. Although
concerns and conflicts exist over the gates in the area, local people also have
had lots of practice in working out these issues with private landowners and
with BLM.
"The forest is a maze [of different ownerships]. You really don't know where you are if you are moving around in the forest. There are gates, trails and roads that go through one another's properties."
Four-wheel driving
is also a popular pastime. The sport has a reputation for damaging public
lands. Many residents voiced the belief that four-wheelers are more aware than
they have been in the past and now attempt to avoid damage.
"I think they work with private owners to get permission. But they will still drive on land that doesn't have a gate."
The Independence
area conducts a yearly Salmon Run to raise money for scholarships in the visual
arts. The event generated $4000 last year. The event is sponsored by art
galleries who sell foam board salmon shaped fishes for $25. Buyers decorate the
fishes to be put on display for the summer salmon run in Independence.
Monmouth Parks and
Recreation Department hosts a free boat safety class and does a variety of
outdoor programs.
A student from
Western Oregon University heads the "Legacy Project" to protect historical
trees and plant new trees in town. Monmouth was recently designated a "Tree USA"
town.
Residents in this
area have been very active in watershed restoration work from a very early
period. Partly from fishing and other recreational pursuits, and partly from an
embedded ethic of land stewardship, people here seem to have taken recovery
work seriously. In the 1980s, the creeks and streams were becoming heavily
"channelized" by farmers to avoid flooding and property line changes brought
about by meandering waterways. In addition, the grass seed and Christmas tree
farms apparently use a lot of chemicals. The outcome for fish and water quality
was not positive. Local activists saw the problem as fragmented or
contradictory laws and regulations implemented by several agencies that did not
communicate. A whole range of groups, projects, and events have been spawned by
this experience.
The favorite
mountain biking places for local enthusiasts is referred to as the "patchwork
area", shown on the ODF map of the Western Oregon Protection District. It is an
area of extremely mixed ownership between BLM and private timber companies that
is located just along the north rim of the Rickreall Ridge. The Molalla River
trails through the McDonald Forest outside Corvallis, and areas of the Siuslaw
National Forest are popular as well. Mountain bikers in this area use private
lands extensively. Boise Cascade lands are known as "higher trails."
Bikers seem to
have personal relationships with the local land managers of the private timber
companies, as well as with the Salem office of the BLM.
"I don't hesitate to call them if I have a question or to get permission to use their land. Sometimes we work on trail maintenance projects."
Bikers say they
don't use the Cascades much. Silver Falls is too far to go, although places
near Lyons and Mill City are used. Information regarding places to bike,
conditions of the trails, and trips are passed word-of-mouth. The local bike
shop in Monmouth ("Jon's") is a communication node for bikers in the area and
it is networked with other bike shops in Salem and elsewhere around information
of common interest. A core group of bikers meets twice a week for informal
rides in the area.
Bikers' message to
the Forest Service is that they (bikers) "try to tread lightly." They described
methods, workshops and information sessions in which people are taught how to
disperse water from the center of a trail and other techniques.
"There are still guys that like to skid and do stupid things, but most people are conscious of how they impact the land."
The sporting good
manager at Bi-Mart offered these insights into where people like to go. A
favorite fishing spot off of Mistletoe Road, off Highway 51, is known as
"Social Security Hole" because oldtimers like it. The Paul Dunn area of the
State Forest is valued for deer hunting and hiking. Families use Holman State
Wayside for its swimming hole (the old territorial road of the 1850s passed
through this wayside). The Lewisburg Road area in the Siuslaw National Forest
is valued for hiking, mountain biking and running. [212] Salmon fishing is
popular in the Van Doser Corridor, about 35 minutes up the coast. The Three
Rivers area near Mary's Peak is popular for fishing.
Many residents
still like to "get lost in the woods" and will drive over toward Valsetz for
this purpose. It sounded like a recreational activity in its own right. The
lands in this area are mostly Boise-Cascade and it is a favorite shooting area.
People still like to take the "main line" road (Fanno Peak Road) from Falls
City to the coast.
Boise-Cascade and
other industrial landowners have an "open land policy." The public has open
access to their lands unless fire risk is high or the weather, timber harvests
and road conditions create safety concerns. Vandalism is a constant concern of
the companies, particularly when expensive contractor equipment is left at
timber harvest sites.
Boise-Cascade has
signs posted throughout their lands prohibiting campfires, overnight camping
and smoking. The company issues firewood permits sporadically from January to
June, based on one load, one family. People call the company information lines
to see if permits are available week-to-week and permits can be obtained from
the company or from the grocery store in Falls City. Boise currently offers no
permits for special forest products but feels it must respond to public demand
soon. They reported excess time by BLM in issuing similar permits and they are
concerned that permitting will become a drag on their time as well. Liability
concerns, however, are the most serious impediment to special forest products
permitting.
The Luckiamute
Watershed Council, a fairly new watershed council, includes Monmouth,
Independence and Falls City. Its activities includes grant development to study
macro-invertebrates and for a scientific watershed assessment. Public
participation has been low and members consider the lack of community support
the group's biggest obstacle.
Themes
Residents confuse
the U.S. Forest Service and Oregon Department of Forestry.
Residents express
common confusion about land ownership patterns, often saying they are not sure
what land they are on at any given time.
Long-time users of
the forest in this area feel it has become overcrowded in the last few years
leading to a widespread sense of loss.
The local
grapevine sometimes has its facts wrong but information that comes through the
networks tends to be trusted and unquestioned. River closures, locked gates,
and general access issues are commonly churned over in the gossip mill because
the facts rarely hit the public sphere.
"Life includes
floods along the river." Older residents expressed a tolerance for the periodic
flooding that so alarms newcomers. They say newcomers should accommodate the
river and resist trying to change it. What used to be a natural, common
occurrence is today considered a threat.
"Whereas the river was once the focal point of culture [because agricultural activity associated with hops and orchards unified the valley in production and social events], now children growing up a few miles away are oblivious to its presence."
Citizen
Issues Related to Natural Resource Management
Recreation
"It's getting harder and harder to fish around here. The streams close to Monmouth either have no fish or have had access restricted. The Siletz River now is closed to fishing. The spots that are left are overcrowded."
"Access
is more and more of a problem." [common]
"Some
of the well-used biking trails are poorly maintained. Motor vehicles are sometimes
where they are not supposed to be, there is litter in the forest, and access to
privately owned land is a problem. Even so the Forest Service has been doing a
great job." [Mountain biker]
"I'd
like to see a map showing mountain bike trails. A few students from OSU have
been working on this but haven't gotten very far. Most people know how to get
maps from BLM and the Forest Service."
"The
upper part of the Siletz River is now closed to fishing so the native gene pool
can be restored. How long does 'indefinitely' last?"
"The
Siletz River that runs through the Valley of the Giants, protected BLM land,
has been closed at the north fork."
"It
is a constant frustration to guess when gates are opened and closed. If you
travel up to Boise Cascade land, you are always susceptible to being locked
in."
"The
rivers and forests are really feeling overcrowded. It's difficult to go
anywhere in the forest without seeing another person. This is very different
from just a few years ago when you still felt free in the Oregon woods."
"The
rules have been tightened up for fishing. You are no longer allowed to use
artificial bait in the Willamette. It's similar to Camp Adair. Lead bullets are
now prohibited. Instead, only steel bullets can be used. A lot of people still
don't understand about lead."
Off-Road Vehicles
Sometimes getting
access to BLM lands is a problem. Sometimes the locked gates protect private
lands.
"There
are a lot of four-wheelers who are tearing up the land."
Forestry Practice
and the Timber Industry
"Private
landowners aren't replanting trees within the timeframe required by law."
"Weyerhaeuser already cut American jobs to create mills in South America. Are they going to do that to the Willamette mill now that they own it?"
Water and Open Space
"There's been discussion in the paper about dredging the Willamette River to allow the paddle wheeler to float down to Albany."
"Some folks have been trying for some time to build a greenway around the Willamette River, west of Salem. More and more property owners are developing right to the river's edge, which is starting to cause mass erosion."
"Once you're past Valsetz, the forest is 'dirty' - lots of vandalism and littering. If you're east of there, the forest is 'clean.'"
Bi-Mart does not
carry any maps from the Forest Service or Department of Forestry. The U.S.
Oregon Atlas and Gazetteer by DeLorme is a preferred map brand. Efforts could
be made to provide maps to private outlets with broad public contact.
The Forest Service
could consider developing a few outlets for its maps, brochures, and any other
function for which people would have to visit an office. We were told that
local people do not use the Forest Service office outside Dallas or the Fish
and Wildlife office off Highway 99 because both of these stations are notorious
for being closed or having infrequent hours.
People
who grew up in this region have had long practice in dealing with gates and
access issues because of the presence of large industrial timberland owners. As
the Forest Service and the BLM begin grappling with these issues on a
region-wide basis, stories from these local residents would provide ideas for
how to structure management options culturally so that they would blend in and
also work.
Previous Chapter | Table of Contents | Next Chapter |
Natural Borders Homepage |